Ka-ching! What affects the value of jewelry?

Wouldn’t it be great to have that Roadshow expert say, “This ring, that your child has played with, is actually worth $1 MILLION!” Well, even if your jewelry’s not worth that much, the rising price of gold and platinum—and demand for precious stones—may cause your pieces to be worth much more now than before.

Factors that can affect jewelry value

• Design: Timeless designs obviously hold their value more than trendy ones. Lesser designs can still have value since the gold/platinum can be melted down and the stone can be reset.

• Cost of the materials: Platinum is the most expensive, then gold, then silver. Gold prices are set daily in the London gold market—it’s based on supply and demand. But materials aren’t the whole story. According to the International Gem Society, “Gold jewelry, for the most part, is priced for the creativity, workmanship, and exclusivity of an item. Stock items such as engagement rings, earrings mountings, etc. reflect gold ounce prices most.”

• Quality of stones: The 4Cs (color, clarity, cut, carat) are known for valuing diamonds, but they’re also important for all gems. Different stones may emphasize a different “C” but quality is still paramount above all.

• Iconic brands: Van Cleef & Arpels, Tiffany, and Cartier are the classics, but other, newer designers are also holding their value. According to the RealReal, a luxury consignment site, trending jewelers include Anita Ko, Irene Neuwirth, and Temple St. Clair.

• Condition: Broken or worn jewelry has less value than a piece in good shape. (That’s another reason to remove rings before using cleaning materials like bleach, or working out.) Keep your jewelry clean and make repairs that don’t impact the integrity of the original.

• Markings: There are several types of stamped markings that, with some sleuthing, can tell you who/what/when/where a piece was made.
  • Hallmarks are impressions struck in jewelry that verify the purity of a precious metal. The use of gold hallmarks date from the 1200s in Europe.
  • Maker’s marks are symbols that can tell an expert (like yours truly) who made the piece.
  • Other identifying marks can tell where/when the piece was made, style number, etc.

Other value-increasing variables

• Provenance: Having the original box and/or original paperwork.
• Age: Older pieces that are well made with high-end stones. Vintage is big!
• Workmanship: A piece can be transformed in the hands of an expert craftsman.

You need a certified expert to assess the value of your jewelry with a professional appraisal. Contact me at (617) 304-0174 or at aimee@ampappraisal.com to set up an appointment.

While jewelry may be a good investment, I think this is a better idea: Buy high-quality pieces that you can wear and truly enjoy. That way, you can add your memories to the value of the metal and stones.

Brilliantly yours, Aimee