“Beyond Brilliance”: Shining a Lens on the Drive to Create

If you’re in the Boston area, run—don’t walk—to the Museum of Fine Arts’ exhibit, “Beyond Brilliance—Jewelry highlights from the collection.” I had the opportunity to see this recently and couldn’t tear myself away. It’s a masterful display of 150 brilliant (pun intended) examples of how jewelry developed and defined culture and history throughout the centuries. The pieces range from 4,000 years ago to this year and one thing jumps out: the desire to create and decorate is not only universal but timeless. The Japanese brooch by LaCloche Brothers ( circa 1925) shown above is a great example.

The exhibit is designed to encourage us to see the jewelry through three lenses: the creativity of the designer, the technical mastery of the creator, and the skill of the lapidary who cut the gemstone.

“Jewelry is human history”

We’re no different from our ancestors… what moved us in ancient times still speaks to us today. The exhibit begins with an example using a basic jewelry component: the bead. Whether it’s a gold and lapis Egyptian collar from 2200 BCE or a 1985 piece (“Adam and Eve” by Joyce J. Scott), both pieces speak to us even today. We’re not that different from our ancestors in the desire to adorn ourselves with beauty.

Wesekh broadcollar/Adam and Eve

Gemstones and crystal are represented by an amazing 19^th century Japanese crystal sphere and brilliant pieces that show how jewelry comes alive in the hands of the creators. Spanning more than 2,000 years, the oldest of the set is an Egyptian earring showing Nike and a chariot. From the 1880s comes a natural pearl and diamond garland necklace once owned (and saved from the Nazis) by the Rothschilds.

“Luxury is a necessity that begins where necessity ends”

Whether an English inkstand in the style of the Orient or a 20^th century pin inspired by the Etruscans, I could see how these artists drew on their jewelry ancestors. And they’re not just jewelers…examples in the exhibit highlight works by photographers, sculptors, and architects. All express the desire to bring personal art and style to the public forum, to be admired at balls and other society occasions. Like the liquid Art Smith “Ellington necklace,” you can see the influence of the past, the present, and even the future in how artists create.

Ellington necklace

I could go on, but the bottom line is that you need to see the exhibit for yourself to really appreciate the stories and history that these pieces tell. Other highlights include examples of geometric figures, modern examples that push the boundaries of traditional jewelry, to fashion pieces. “Beyond Brilliance—Jewelry highlights from the collection” is an ongoing MFA exhibit. It’s a must for both the jewelry expert and novice gemstone admirer. Don’t miss it!

Wishing you jewels and beauty,

Aimee